5 Watches Going Up in Value on the Second-Hand Market (Under £5,000)
“Buy what you love” will always be the rule, but let’s be honest: it feels good when your watch quietly climbs in value while you enjoy wearing it.
While the market isn’t as frothy as it was in 2022, certain pieces under £5,000 are still quietly appreciating, driven by limited supply, strong design, and growing collector recognition. Here are five watches you can still buy under £5,000 that are going up in value on the pre-owned market.
Credit - Grand Seiko
1. Grand Seiko “SBGA413 Snowflake Spring Drive”
The Grand Seiko Snowflake is the gateway for many discovering GS’s dial artistry and finishing. Its Spring Drive movement offers quartz-level accuracy with a butter-smooth seconds sweep, while the titanium case keeps it light and wearable for daily use. The dial, inspired by freshly fallen snow, remains captivating and never feels tired.
While newer Grand Seiko models are edging above £5,000, the Snowflake remains within reach and is seeing consistent demand as collectors look for alternatives to predictable Swiss options.
Original Retail: ~£4,800
Current Market Value: £4,800–£5,200
Why It’s Rising: Dial artistry paired with Spring Drive tech and limited supply is driving steady upward demand.
Credit - Cartier
2. Cartier Tank Must (Automatic, Large Model)
The Cartier Tank Must is enjoying a revival as collectors rediscover dress watches that work as well with a suit as they do on a casual Friday. The large automatic version (ref. WSTA0040) offers the classic Tank proportions with mechanical satisfaction, providing timeless elegance in a daily-wearable format.
Full-set examples are trending upwards, reflecting Cartier’s growing relevance in collector spaces and among style-conscious buyers.
Original Retail: ~£3,350
Current Market Value: £3,600–£4,200
Why It’s Rising: It’s Cartier’s timeless design, refreshed with mechanical credibility, paired with a broader resurgence in dress watch appreciation.
Credit - Tudor
3. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight (Ref. 79030N)
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight has redefined Tudor’s modern offerings, with a 39mm slim case and in-house movement that appeals to those wanting a vintage aesthetic with modern reliability. It is a watch that fits nearly every wrist, pairs well with any strap, and feels like it will never go out of style.
Pre-owned prices remain strong, and with limited supply in many markets, well-kept examples are seeing gradual upward movement.
Original Retail: ~£3,200
Current Market Value: £3,200–£3,800
Why It’s Rising: A versatile, daily-wearable diver that has broad appeal, capturing the sweet spot between heritage and contemporary Tudor design.
Credit - Nomos
4. Nomos Club Campus 38
For an affordable watch with genuine collector interest and upward movement, the Nomos Club Campus 38 is a smart, under-the-radar choice. It features a slim, German-made in-house movement, minimal Bauhaus design, and playful California dial, quietly developing a cult following as younger collectors discover the brand.
Nomos’s gradual reduction in discounts and the rising reputation of the brand’s finishing and design sensibility is pushing pre-owned values upward.
Original Retail: ~£1,000
Current Market Value: £950–£1,200
Why It’s Rising: Affordable, beautifully made, and gaining traction as a quality entry into mechanical watch collecting.
Credit - Longines
5. Longines Spirit 37mm Automatic (Ref. L3.810.4.93.6)
Replacing the Omega Speedmaster on this list, the Longines Spirit 37mm offers a refreshing blend of classic pilot watch styling with a contemporary, wearable size. The blue sunburst dial is elegant without being showy, and the COSC-certified movement inside offers 64 hours of power reserve, making it a serious watch at a very accessible price.
Collectors are beginning to recognise Longines’ Spirit line as one of the best value propositions in modern watchmaking, and as the brand leans further into heritage designs, the pre-owned values for clean examples are starting to creep upwards.
Original Retail: ~£2,050
Current Market Value: £1,800–£2,200
Why It’s Rising: Classic design, COSC certification, and daily-wear reliability are fuelling quiet collector interest, with the 37mm sizing appealing to those shifting away from oversized watches.
Why This Matters
These watches are not speculative “flip for profit” hype pieces. They are watches you will want to wear daily while knowing they are retaining and slowly building value in the background.
Key takeaways:
• Buy what you love first; appreciation is the bonus.
• Condition matters: Full sets and clean examples will always outperform.
• Enjoy them: The true value of a watch is in wearing it, not locking it away.
• Be patient: Good watches reward slow, steady ownership.
Final Thoughts
Collecting watches under £5,000 that appreciate in value is possible, practical, and genuinely enjoyable. Whether it’s the quiet elegance of a Cartier Tank, the advanced engineering of a Grand Seiko Snowflake, or the heritage-rich style of the Longines Spirit, these pieces offer joy today while rewarding patience tomorrow.
The only question left is: Which one will you add to your collection before prices climb further?