A Quiet Expression of Japanese Refinement: Kiwame Tokyo Usuki
In a landscape dominated by established Swiss and Japanese giants, the arrival of a new voice always piques interest — especially when it speaks with subtle confidence and refined restraint. Enter the Kiwame Tokyo Usuki, a limited‑edition timepiece that sees the fledgling Tokyo microbrand interpreting classic field watch ideals through the lens of Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship. Designed in Asakusa, Tokyo, and limited to just 99 pieces, the Usuki is a quiet yet compelling debut that deserves attention from watch lovers seeking authenticity and character.
A Dial of Warmth and Heritage
The standout feature of the Usuki is its dial, inspired by a traditional Japanese hue known as “Usuki.” This warm, yellow‑ivory tone is richer and softer than typical ivory, lending the watch a distinctive personality that feels both nostalgic and serene. Rather than relying on bright contrast, the dial absorbs and diffuses light with a gentle presence, making it a pleasure to observe in different conditions.
Adding depth and sophistication are the three‑dimensional applied Arabic numerals finished in a matte black coating. These numerals cast delicate shadows that shift with every change of angle, imbuing the dial with an almost sculptural quality. A slender heat‑blued seconds hand brings a refined pop of colour, providing just the right visual counterpoint to the dial’s warmth.
Design that Marries Field DNA with Elegance
At 38mm in diameter and 9.5mm thick, the Usuki occupies a sweet spot in watch sizing — compact enough to feel classic, yet substantial enough to hold its own on the wrist. The lug‑to‑lug span of 46mm ensures a comfortable fit without overwhelming more modest dimensions.
The case itself is crafted from 316L stainless steel, with alternating brushed and polished surfaces that add subtle dimensionality. A sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective coating protects the dial, ensuring clear legibility across a range of lighting conditions. While the watch leans into dressier proportions, practical touches like 100 metres of water resistance and a screw‑down crown reinforce its field‑ready DNA.
Movement and Wearability
Inside the Usuki ticks the reliable Miyota Calibre 9039 automatic movement, a Japanese‑made engine known for its robustness and refined performance. With a 42‑hour power reserve and a high frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it strikes a balance between dependability and precision that’s especially impressive in this microbrand segment.
Completing the package is a black Italian calf leather strap with quick‑release spring bars — a practical and comfortable choice that suits the watch’s understated charm.
Limited Edition Allure
There’s something inherently appealing about limited numbers, and the Usuki’s run of 99 pieces amplifies its desirability. The combination of timeless design, thoughtful execution, and narrative depth gives the watch a feeling of quiet exclusivity without ostentation. On the wrist, it delivers the sort of presence that turns heads not with flash, but with refined taste.
Final Thoughts
The Kiwame Tokyo Usuki is not a loud debut — it doesn’t rely on gimmicks or overt branding to make its mark. Instead, it offers a compelling blend of subtle colour, thoughtful detailing, and traditional watchmaking fundamentals. It’s our pick for collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate watches that feel personal, considered, and imbued with cultural meaning.
In a world where so many watches shout for attention, the Usuki whispers — and in doing so, makes a confident statement about what true refinement looks like.
this watch is now sold out but with some careful searching might be available on the pre-owned market.
