Bear With Me: Why I’ve Got Panda Eyes Thinking About Black and White Dials
If you’ve been into watches long enough, you know when it happens: you see that watch—a crisp black-and-white dial, balanced subdials, a flash of red or orange on a hand—and your mind says, “I get it now.” That’s what panda and reverse panda chronographs have done to me. I’ve got panda eyes these days, and not just from late-night scrolling (though, let’s be honest, that’s part of it). Black-and-white dials have a way of capturing your attention and holding it, no matter how many watches you’ve handled.
A chronograph isn’t just about timing coffee or laps at a track; it adds mechanical depth to a watch, making it feel alive. The pushers give you something to interact with, the subdials add visual interest, and the tactile click of the chronograph engaging is a small but satisfying part of wearing a watch. Pair this with a panda or reverse panda dial, and you have a combination of practicality and design that has stood the test of time, rooted in the 1960s motorsport era.
Panda dials—white with black subdials—and reverse panda dials—black with white subdials—emerged from the racing world, where high contrast was a necessity for timing accuracy. Today, they remain popular because they are timeless, versatile, and effortlessly stylish, pairing with a t-shirt as easily as with a blazer. They’ve become a bit of an obsession for me, and each year, like Del Boy from Only Fools and Horses, I catch myself saying: “Next year, Rodney.”
Not everyone wants or needs to spend big on a watch, and being microbrand-focused, we know how much value can be found at every price point. Here are the panda and reverse panda chronographs I would actually wear, each special in its own way, and each capable of making you smile every time you look down at your wrist.
Credit - Timex
Timex Waterbury Heritage Chronograph €185 (£159)
The Timex Waterbury Heritage Chronograph proves that good design isn’t reserved for big budgets. It brings the panda dial aesthetic into an accessible, everyday package that punches well above its weight in style and practicality. The clean white dial, crisp black subdials, and wearable 39mm case make this a watch that fits seamlessly into your day-to-day without feeling like a compromise.
What I love about this watch is its honesty. There are no pretensions here, just a reliable quartz movement and a design that respects the panda tradition. The subdials are clear, the baton hands are crisp, and it all comes together in a way that makes you feel like you’re getting a lot for your money. It’s the kind of watch you can throw on without worrying, ready for dog walks, weekend errands, or even timing your coffee.
On the wrist, it’s comfortable and light, with a bracelet that feels sturdy enough for everyday knocks. It’s not aiming to be a luxury piece, and that’s precisely why it’s fun to wear. It allows you to experience the charm of a panda chronograph without stress, offering a daily reminder that watches are meant to be worn and enjoyed, not locked away.
This one earns its place on the list because it proves that enjoying a well-designed panda chronograph isn’t about price—it’s about the feeling you get when you glance down and see that timeless black-and-white contrast staring back at you.
Credit - Baltic
Baltic Tricompax Reverse Panda €1,645 (£1,400)
Baltic’s Tricompax Reverse Panda is one of the finest examples of what microbrands can achieve when they combine passion, design clarity, and reliable modern watchmaking. Baltic has built its reputation on creating vintage-inspired pieces with contemporary quality, and the Tricompax is a masterclass in how to do it right.
The semi-gloss black dial with creamy, recessed subdials delivers instant vintage racing vibes, while the brushed tachymeter bezel and domed sapphire crystal complete the aesthetic without feeling forced. One of my favourite details is the beads-of-rice bracelet, which hugs the wrist with flexibility and comfort while adding a touch of 1960s charm. The way it catches the light subtly while maintaining the watch’s tool-watch essence is simply brilliant.
Powered by the hand-wound Sellita SW510-M with a 63-hour power reserve, the Tricompax offers a smooth, tactile chronograph experience. Winding it each morning feels like a connection to the watch, adding a small but meaningful ritual to your day. The pushers engage with a satisfying click, and the subdial layout is balanced and clear, making timing effortless and enjoyable.
This watch makes the list because it represents everything I love about microbrands: thoughtful design, mechanical reliability, and a price point that delivers exceptional value. If you want a reverse panda chronograph that feels like a vintage treasure while offering modern practicality, the Baltic Tricompax is a piece you’ll reach for again and again.
Credit - Seiko
Seiko 6138-8020 “Panda” (Vintage, €1,750 (£1,500)
The Seiko 6138-8020, affectionately known as the “Panda,” is a cornerstone for anyone who appreciates vintage chronographs with genuine character. Produced in the 1970s, this watch captures the era’s design language while delivering practicality that makes it wearable in the modern day.
It features a vertically stacked panda layout with a brushed silver dial and striking black subdials, framed by a black tachymeter bezel that adds a sporty edge. Inside, the in-house Seiko 6138B automatic chronograph movement offers the reliability Seiko built its reputation on. The chronograph engages with mechanical honesty, providing a tactile connection that many modern pieces struggle to replicate.
Wearing the Seiko Panda is like wearing a story on your wrist. The 40mm case offers a commanding yet comfortable presence, while the dial’s clear, purposeful layout makes it practical for everyday timing. Despite its vintage status, this is a watch you can genuinely wear daily, knowing it was built to last and ready to collect more stories with you.
It deserves a place here because it represents the best of vintage Seiko: reliability, charm, and design that stands the test of time. For those looking to add a panda chronograph with soul to their collection, the 6138-8020 is a piece that will continue to deliver joy every time you put it on.
Credit - Hamilton
Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono €2,200 (£1,900)
The Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a beautiful blend of vintage styling and modern reliability, capturing the spirit of 1960s chronographs with a touch of contemporary refinement. It’s a panda chronograph that feels quietly confident, never loud but always stylish.
The cream dial and black subdials are paired perfectly with a black tachymeter ring, providing instant panda appeal while maintaining legibility. At 40mm, it sits comfortably on the wrist, with a slim enough profile to slip under a cuff while still having enough presence to feel substantial.
Under the hood is the H-31 automatic chronograph movement, providing a 60-hour power reserve and Valjoux-based reliability. The chronograph pushers deliver a satisfying click, reminding you of the watch’s mechanical heart each time you engage them. The overall wearing experience is one of ease, confidence, and enjoyment.
This watch makes the list because it’s a panda chronograph you can truly wear every day, with just enough vintage cues to keep it interesting while providing the reliability of modern watchmaking. It’s a watch that proves you don’t need to compromise when looking for a panda chrono that’s both wearable and timeless.
Credit - Tudor
Tudor Black Bay Chrono €5,300 (£4,500)
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono is a watch that commands respect while remaining versatile enough for everyday wear. It’s the tool-watch hero of this list, pairing the reverse panda aesthetic with modern robustness in a way only Tudor can deliver.
Its 41mm case, screw-down pushers, and 200m water resistance ensure it’s ready for whatever your day brings, from water to travel and everything in between. The black dial with crisp white subdials is clean, functional, and striking, delivering a classic reverse panda look with modern flair. The snowflake hands and red chronograph accents provide subtle but distinctive Tudor character.
Inside beats the MT5813 movement, a collaboration with Breitling’s B01 calibre, delivering a column-wheel chronograph with a 70-hour power reserve and COSC certification for accuracy. The chronograph feels buttery smooth, and the screw-down pushers add a ritualistic aspect to timing that reinforces its tool-watch credibility.
This watch makes the list because it is the “do-it-all” panda chronograph, the one you could own as your only watch and never feel underdressed or underprepared. It’s proof that panda dials aren’t just about aesthetics; they’re about practicality, history, and fun.
Credit - Omega
Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th Anniversary Panda €14,000 (£12,000)
The Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th Anniversary Panda is a grail watch for any panda dial enthusiast, merging the iconic Speedmaster Moonwatch design with a panda dial that respects its heritage while adding a new dimension to its personality.
Released in 2004 to commemorate the 35th anniversary of the Apollo 11 Moon landing, it features a clean white dial with black subdials, accented by the subtle red “July 20, 1969” text that reminds you of its lunar lineage. The 42mm case sits comfortably while maintaining the classic Speedmaster profile, instantly recognisable to watch lovers and non-enthusiasts alike.
Inside ticks the manual-wind calibre 1861, directly descended from the movement that went to the Moon. Winding this watch feels like a connection to history, with the crisp pushers delivering that perfect Speedmaster tactile experience. It’s a watch that feels special every time you strap it on, reminding you of human achievement while delivering daily practicality.
This Speedmaster deserves a place here because it represents the pinnacle of what a panda dial can be: timeless, iconic, and genuinely meaningful. It’s the “next year, Rodney” watch for me, reminding me that grails aren’t just about the price—they’re about the story and joy they bring to your collection.
Final Thoughts
From the affordable fun of the Timex Waterbury, the microbrand brilliance of the Baltic Tricompax, and the vintage soul of the Seiko 6138-8020, to the wearable class of the Hamilton Intra-Matic, the rugged versatility of the Tudor Black Bay Chrono, and the grail-level heritage of the Speedmaster Apollo XI Panda, these six panda and reverse panda chronographs showcase why black-and-white dials remain irresistible.
They’re watches that remind us why we collect, why we care, and why we find ourselves whispering “next year, Rodney” as we scroll for the next addition. Panda and reverse panda dials aren’t just a look—they’re a timeless approach to watch design that feels right in every setting, on every wrist, and in every chapter of collecting.
If you find yourself up late, panda eyes and all, browsing these dials, know you’re not alone—and that sometimes, the best part of watch collecting is the journey, not just the destination.