HTD Watches: Italian Style Meets Tool Watch Grit
If you’ve not yet come across HTD Watches, you’re missing out on one of the most exciting young names in the world of microbrands. Based in Florence, Italy, HTD — short for Horological Tools Department — has been quietly turning heads with its blend of vintage-inspired design, modern mechanics, and a touch of unmistakable Italian flair.
A Modern Brand with Old-School Soul
HTD was founded in 2020 by a pair of Italian watch enthusiasts, Federico Del Guerra and Federico Zulian. Their mission? To create proper tool watches — the kind you’d actually want to wear, not just admire from behind a glass case. Everything about HTD feels rooted in practicality: compact cases, wearable proportions, and solid, dependable Swiss movements.
But don’t mistake that for dull. These watches ooze character. They take design cues from mid-century motorsport and classic sports chronographs, with just the right amount of nostalgia to make them interesting — without tipping into gimmick territory.
The Hesagraph MKII – A Star in the Line-Up
The headline act in HTD’s stable is the Hesagraph MKII Variante B — a beautifully balanced mechanical chronograph that shows what the brand is capable of. At 39 mm wide and around 12 mm thick, it’s refreshingly wearable compared to some chunky modern chronos.
Inside beats the Sellita SW510M, a hand-wound Swiss movement with around 58 hours of power reserve. Wind it, wear it, and you’ll feel that satisfying resistance of proper mechanics doing their thing.
The dial? A reverse-panda setup that nods to racing watches of the 1960s — all black and white contrast, crisp sub-dials, and a real sense of purpose. The finishing, too, is spot-on. You can tell HTD’s been levelling up fast — reviewers consistently praise the build quality, from the polished chamfers to the bracelet and clasp.
Beyond the Chrono: The Sportier Side of HTD
HTD doesn’t just do chronographs. Their Tennis Sport collection brings a fun twist to the field-watch formula, with clever tennis-themed dial details (think “Fifteen”, “Thirty”, “Forty” instead of traditional markers) and a slim 9 mm profile that’s perfect for daily wear.
Then there’s the Aquatic range — vintage-styled divers that still keep things elegant. Think domed sapphire, screw-in crowns, and proportions that make sense on the wrist. It’s all very Italian: purposeful, stylish, and just a little bit different.
Why Collectors Are Paying Attention
HTD’s appeal comes down to a few key things:
Real mechanics – Swiss movements and proper hand-wound chronographs under £2,000.
Wearable sizing – No dinner-plate watches here; everything sits comfortably under 40 mm.
Italian craftsmanship – Designed and assembled in Florence, with real attention to detail.
Limited runs – Once they’re gone, they’re gone. Which makes ownership that little bit more special.
It’s a formula that’s resonating strongly with collectors who want substance and style without spending Rolex money.
Winding Things Up
HTD might be a young brand, but it’s one that’s clearly found its stride. Their watches strike that rare balance between passion and precision — the sort of pieces you buy because you love watches, not logos.
From the beautifully executed Hesagraph to the playful Tennis Sport, everything HTD makes feels designed with intent and built with heart. If you’re after a timepiece that’s unique, mechanical, and brimming with Italian soul, HTD Watches deserve a serious spot on your shortlist.
In short: Florence is famous for art, food, and fashion — but now, maybe it’s time to add watches to that list.
