MAEN x Nico Leonard Grand Tonneau Ultra Thin: Same Shape, Sharper Execution
There is a fine line between a follow up and a fix. The new MAEN x Nico Leonard Grand Tonneau Ultra Thin lands somewhere in between, taking the original tonneau concept and quietly ironing out the bits that held it back.
Same idea. Much better execution.
From Jump Hour Gimmick to Proper Watch
The original Grand Tonneau release leaned heavily on its jump hour complication. It was fun, slightly chaotic, and very much in keeping with the Nico Leonard energy. But underneath that, it was powered by a fairly standard Seagull based movement with modest performance and around 38 hours of power reserve.
This new Ultra Thin version shifts the focus completely.
Gone is the novelty. In its place is the La Joux Perret D101 manual wind movement, a far more considered choice that aligns with what this watch is trying to be. It is slimmer, better finished, and designed specifically for thin, dress leaning watches, typically delivering around 50 hours of power reserve.
In simple terms, this is the upgrade that changes the conversation. It is no longer just about design.
Properly Thin, Not Just “Slim For The Shape”
At 6.4mm thick, this is where things get interesting.
The original came in at just under 10mm, which was perfectly wearable, but not exactly remarkable.
This new case is genuinely thin. Not “for a tonneau” thin. Proper thin. The kind of profile that shifts it into a different category entirely, closer to classic ultra thin dress pieces than quirky microbrand experiments.
And crucially, it still manages 5 ATM water resistance, meaning it has not sacrificed everyday usability in the process.
The Bracelet Fix Everyone Was Waiting For
The other big upgrade is the bracelet.
Previously, the Grand Tonneau sat on rubber. Comfortable, yes. But it limited the watch. It felt like a design piece rather than a complete package.
Now, we get an integrated steel bracelet that finally matches the ambition of the case. Better finishing, improved taper, and a more cohesive overall feel. It is a move that mirrors what MAEN has already done well in its Manhattan line, where the bracelet is a genuine highlight rather than an afterthought. On a watch this thin, that matters more than ever.
Five Colourways, More Restraint Than Expected
Five dial options give the collection some range, but the overall tone is noticeably more restrained than the original release.
This is not a loud watch. Which, given the collaboration, might be the biggest surprise of all.
Clean layouts, balanced proportions, and a focus on wearability over shock value. It feels like MAEN has taken control of the design language here, rather than letting the collaboration dictate it.
The Wind Up Take
This is what a second attempt should look like. The Grand Tonneau Ultra Thin keeps the distinctive case shape but strips away the gimmicks and upgrades the fundamentals. The movement is better. The bracelet is better. The proportions are significantly better.
It is still a tonneau watch, which means it will never be universal. But this version feels far more considered, far more complete, and far more likely to stick around in a collection long term. Less noise. More substance.
And finally, a MAEN x Nico Leonard that feels like a watch first and a collaboration second.
