The Zenith G.F.J. Gets the Naoya Hida Treatment
Collaborations have become commonplace in modern watchmaking, but every now and then one appears that genuinely catches collectors off guard. The new Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. is exactly that kind of release.
Created as the inaugural model in Zenith's new Double Signed Programme, the watch brings together one of Switzerland's most historic manufacturers and one of Japan's most revered independent watchmakers. Rather than simply sharing dial space, the partnership sees Naoya Hida's distinctive design language applied to Zenith's flagship G.F.J. and its legendary Calibre 135 movement.
The result is one of the most interesting watches Zenith has released in years.
Swiss Precision Meets Japanese Craftsmanship
At first glance, the watch feels unmistakably different from the standard G.F.J. collection. The 39.15mm platinum case retains the elegant proportions of the original, measuring just 10.5mm thick with a 45.75mm lug to lug span, but the dial is where Naoya Hida's influence becomes immediately apparent.
Crafted from solid sterling silver, the dial features engraved numerals, minute markers and signatures that are then filled with black lacquer for exceptional contrast and depth. The execution is deliberately restrained, drawing attention to the precision of the finishing rather than relying on decorative excess.
Both the Zenith and Naoya Hida & Co. signatures are engraved directly into the dial using traditional pantograph engraving techniques, reflecting the meticulous attention to detail that has become a hallmark of Hida's work.
The hands follow the same philosophy. Crafted from solid gold, they are individually machined and hand polished before assembly, while a heat blued seconds hand adds a subtle touch of colour to an otherwise monochromatic design.
The overall aesthetic feels remarkably cohesive. It captures the clean, understated elegance that collectors have come to expect from Naoya Hida while preserving the historical significance of the Zenith platform beneath it.
The Legendary Calibre 135
Powering the watch is Zenith's celebrated Calibre 135, a movement that occupies a special place in horological history.
Originally developed for observatory chronometer competitions during the mid twentieth century, the calibre became one of the most successful precision movements ever created. Between 1950 and 1954, Zenith dominated the Neuchâtel Observatory trials with the Calibre 135, cementing its reputation as one of the most accurate movements of its era.
For the modern G.F.J., Zenith revived and reengineered the calibre for contemporary collectors while preserving much of its original architecture and character.
Visible through the sapphire caseback, the manually wound movement features large Geneva stripes, polished bevels, a substantial balance wheel operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour and an impressive 72 hour power reserve. The movement is also COSC certified, ensuring its chronometer credentials extend beyond historical significance.
For many collectors, the Calibre 135 remains one of the greatest manually wound movements Zenith has ever produced, making its pairing with Naoya Hida all the more compelling.
More Than Just a Strap Package
Continuing the Japanese theme, Zenith has equipped the watch with three distinct straps that showcase traditional craftsmanship from different regions of Japan.
Owners receive a Himeji Kurozan leather strap, a Kyoto produced Wagyu leather strap and perhaps most unusually, a Kaihara denim strap. While denim may seem an unexpected choice for a CHF 58,900 platinum watch, it perfectly reflects the collaborative nature of the project and the appreciation both brands share for artisanal manufacturing.
Each strap is secured by a matching platinum pin buckle, ensuring the level of finishing remains consistent throughout.
Limited to Just 10 Pieces
Exclusivity was clearly part of the brief from the outset. Production is limited to just 10 examples worldwide, making this one of the rarest modern Zenith releases.
With a retail price of CHF 58,900, it sits firmly within the realm of serious collectors, although given the reputations of both Zenith and Naoya Hida, securing one may prove considerably more challenging than paying for it.
Credit - Zenith
Specifications
Reference: 40.1865.2.0135/01.C220
Case Material: Platinum
Diameter: 39.15mm
Thickness: 10.5mm
Lug to Lug: 45.75mm
Dial: Solid sterling silver with engraved and lacquer filled markings
Movement: Zenith Calibre 135
Winding: Manual
Power Reserve: 72 Hours
Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5Hz)
Certification: COSC Chronometer
Crystal: Sapphire front and back
Water Resistance: 50 Metres
Straps: Himeji Kurozan leather, Kyoto Wagyu leather, Kaihara denim
Buckle: Platinum pin buckle
Limited Edition: 10 Pieces
Price: CHF 58,900
Winding Things Up
Collaborations are everywhere in watchmaking today, but very few feel as authentic as this. Rather than simply placing a second logo on an existing design, Zenith has allowed Naoya Hida's design philosophy to fundamentally reshape the character of the G.F.J.
The result combines one of Switzerland's most historically significant movements with the refined aesthetics and craftsmanship that have made Naoya Hida one of the most sought after names in independent watchmaking. It is thoughtful, beautifully executed and refreshingly different from what we typically see in the luxury watch space.
If this is the standard Zenith intends to set for its new Double Signed Programme, collectors will be watching very closely to see who gets the next call.
