Tick-Tock Tokyo: Japanese Microbrands Worth Watching
Japan isn’t just the land of sushi, samurai, and Studio Ghibli. It’s also home to a quiet horological revolution, led by a new wave of microbrand watchmakers who are blending Japanese craftsmanship, cutting-edge design, and just a touch of eccentricity. While the big dogs like Seiko and Citizen often steal the spotlight, these smaller brands are proving that size isn't everything.
So, strap in (preferably leather or titanium) — here are some Japanese micro watch brands that deserve a prime spot in your collection.
Credit - Kuoe Kyoto
Kuoe Kyoto – Old-School Cool in a 35mm Case
Let’s start in Kyoto — more famous for temples than ticking hands, but Kuoe is out to change that. Their "Old Smith" line looks like something your granddad might’ve worn during post-war jaunts, and we mean that in the best possible way.
Compact cases, domed crystals, and clean, vintage dials — Kuoe captures a retro British-Japanese hybrid aesthetic that works with both a suit and a Sunday stroll. Bonus points for using Japanese automatic movements, and for shipping to the UK without making us remortgage.
Watch to try: Old Smith 90-002 – timeless, understated, and quietly stylish (like a Kyoto teahouse, really).
Credit - Kurono Tokyo
Kurono Tokyo – Indie Design Meets Art Deco Swagger
Created by the legendary watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, Kurono is the poster child for accessible haute horlogerie. These aren’t mass-produced fashion watches. They’re art pieces you can actually afford — for now.
Kurono timepieces ooze vintage glamour, with art deco dials, lacquered finishes, and exquisite attention to detail. Each release is a small-batch event, and they tend to sell out faster than Glastonbury tickets.
Watch to try: Kurono Tokyo Chronograph II – if Gatsby were Japanese and into watches, this would be on his wrist.
Credit - Minase
Minase – The Quiet Samurai of Case Design
Minase isn’t trying to be trendy. It’s trying to be perfect. Built in a snowy workshop in Akita prefecture, their watches are as close to sculpture as you’ll find in horology.
They’re best known for their “case-in-case” structure — essentially a watch within a watch — giving insane depth and finishing that rivals Swiss high-end brands. And yes, they polish every surface using the same Zaratsu technique as Grand Seiko. If you know, you know.
Watch to try: Divido – edgy, architectural, and more Japanese than a bowl of ramen at midnight.
Credit - Knot
Knot – Customisable Chic Without the Price Shock
If you’re after personalisation without entering Rolex territory, Knot is your new best mate. Based in Tokyo, this brand lets you mix and match cases, straps, and dials to suit your mood (or your socks).
Prices are refreshingly sane, especially considering the handmade leather straps (some from Himeji tanneries, which are to leather what Kobe is to beef). It’s a gateway drug for budding collectors and a playful option for veterans.
Watch to try: AT-38 Automatic Series – classic Japanese minimalism, with a mechanical heart.
Credit - Naoya Hida & Co
Naoya Hida & Co. – Haute Horology, But Make It Subtle
OK, this one’s not technically a microbrand in price — more in spirit. Naoya Hida creates handmade watches in tiny quantities with vintage-inspired cases, German silver dials, and hand-engraved numerals. They’re what Patek would be if Patek drank matcha and wore selvedge denim.
The waiting list is long, and the prices are… aspirational. But if you get the chance to handle one, you’ll understand the fuss.
Watch to drool over: NH Type 2C – it’s understated luxury with samurai-level discipline.
Final Thoughts: The Microbrand Moment
Whether you’re into understated minimalism or bold design statements, Japan’s microbrands offer something refreshingly different from the standard Swiss suspects. These watchmakers combine meticulous craftsmanship with modern identity — a blend of heritage and innovation you can literally wear on your sleeve.
And in a world full of smartwatches, there's something deliciously rebellious about a handmade mechanical timepiece made by a small workshop halfway across the globe.
Just don’t blame us when your one turns into five.
