There is something rather appealing about a watch that looks as though it belongs in a much more expensive collection without feeling the need to shout about it. Danish watchmaker AV86 has built its reputation around clean design, everyday wearability and a healthy dose of Scandinavian charm, and the 1564 Sunrise is a fine example of that philosophy.
Combining a classic off white dial with a stainless steel case and the mechanical appeal of an automatic calendar movement, this is the sort of watch that could find itself equally at home under a shirt cuff or accompanying a relaxed weekend outfit. It is understated, versatile and refreshingly free from unnecessary fuss. In a market where some watches seem determined to make a statement from across the room, that is no bad thing.
The real talking point of the AV86 1564 Sunrise is not simply its handsome dial, but what it manages to squeeze onto it. Beneath the vintage inspired styling sits a full calendar display, giving this watch considerably more going on than your standard time and date automatic.
The day and month each have their own dedicated subdial, while a date window sits neatly between four and five o'clock. It is a thoughtful arrangement that adds genuine functionality without making the 1564 Sunrise dial feel unnecessarily cluttered. For anyone who appreciates a watch with a little mechanical complexity, there is plenty here to explore.
Then there is the feature that gives the Sunrise its name. Positioned at six o'clock, the illustrated 24 hour subdial tracks the time across an entire day, with its sunrise inspired artwork bringing a distinctive visual flourish to the design. Rather than being another purely functional register, it gives the dial a character of its own and helps separate this model from the wider field of vintage inspired automatic watches.
Powering everything is the Japanese Miyota 9120 automatic movement, a premium calibre with a 40 hour power reserve. It brings together the calendar displays and 24 hour indicator in one mechanical package, delivering a useful combination of everyday practicality and enthusiast friendly watchmaking.
It is this blend of complication and personality that makes the 1564 Sunrise particularly interesting. The calendar functions give it substance, while the illustrated subdial provides a little individuality that you do not see on every watch at this price point.
A Classic Look That Never Goes Out Of Fashion
The off white dial is the obvious starting point. Warmer than a stark white finish, it brings a subtle vintage character to the design without making the watch feel dated. Paired with the steel case, the overall aesthetic is clean and considered, giving the watch plenty of versatility without sacrificing personality.
AV86 takes inspiration from traditional watch design and combines it with a distinctly contemporary Scandinavian approach. The result is a timepiece that avoids the trap of looking like a direct imitation of a vintage classic. Instead, it takes familiar design cues and gives them a modern, everyday appeal.
The 1564 collection is also available in a variety of dial colours, but there is a strong argument for the off white version. It is easy to wear, easy to pair with different straps and unlikely to fall out of favour when the next big watch trend inevitably comes along.
A Watch For Everyday Life
Perhaps the strongest argument for the 1564 Sunrise is its versatility. The restrained colour palette gives it the flexibility to work across a range of occasions, from the office to dinner out and everything in between.
AV86 also offers a quick release strap system across its watch range, allowing owners to change the look of their timepiece without needing specialist tools. A simple strap swap can make a surprising difference, taking a watch from smart and understated to something a little more relaxed.
Specifications
Model: AV86 1564 Chronodate Automatic
Case Diameter: 39mm
Case Thickness: 13mm
Lug To Lug: 49.2mm
Lug Width: 20mm
Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel
Dial: Off White With Sunrise Detail
Crystal: Double Domed Sapphire Crystal With Anti Reflective Coating
Movement: Miyota 9120 Premium Automatic
Power Reserve: 40 Hours
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Day, Date, Month And 24 Hour Display
Water Resistance: 50 Metres (5 ATM)
Strap: Italian Leather With Pin Buckle
Strap System: Quick Release
Case Back: Snap On, Individually Numbered
Warranty: 2 Years
Price: £629.00
Winding Things Up
The AV86 1564 Sunrise proves that a watch does not need a luxury price tag to offer something a little different. Beneath its clean classic styling sits a surprisingly characterful automatic timepiece, combining a full calendar complication with an illustrated 24 hour sunrise subdial that gives the dial a personality all of its own.
The Miyota 9120 movement brings genuine mechanical interest to the table, with dedicated day and month subdials and a date window providing useful everyday functionality. Meanwhile, the warm off white dial, stainless steel case and double domed sapphire crystal ensure that the practical details are matched by a design that feels equally suited to the office, a weekend away or a slightly more dressed up occasion.
It is that balance between functionality and individuality that makes the Sunrise stand out. The calendar displays offer more than the usual hours, minutes and date arrangement, while the sunrise artwork adds a distinctive flourish without overwhelming the overall design. It is a thoughtful alternative to the countless minimalist watches competing for attention.
For anyone looking for an automatic watch with vintage inspired looks, genuine complications and a design that does not simply follow the crowd, the AV86 1564 Sunrise is well worth a closer look. It might not have the heritage of a Swiss watchmaking heavyweight, but it has something arguably just as appealing: a clear identity, a useful mechanical heart and a dial that gives you something interesting to look at every time you check the time. AV86 are becoming a microbrand that collectors are starting to take notice of, and we love that!
