Bell & Ross BR-X5 BLACK STEEL Review: The Horological Heavyweight in a Tux
Bell & Ross are no strangers to bold design. Known for their unapologetically square cases and aviation-inspired aesthetics, they’ve carved out a niche where rugged meets refined — and occasionally wears a flight suit.
But before we dive into the BR-X5 BLACK STEEL, let’s take a quick look at the brand behind the beast.
Credit - Bell & Ross
Who Are Bell & Ross?
Founded in 1992 by French designer Bruno Belamich (the “Bell”) and businessman Carlos Rosillo (the “Ross”), Bell & Ross had one simple mission: to create functional timepieces inspired by military and professional use, particularly aviation. The pair weren’t just dreaming, they enlisted aeronautical control panel designers and Swiss watchmakers from the get-go.
Their watches are instantly recognisable thanks to the “circle in a square” design, which echoes cockpit instruments. Over the years, Bell & Ross have become synonymous with watches that look like they belong at 30,000 feet — and could probably survive a crash landing while keeping perfect time.
From military pilots and bomb disposal experts to deep-sea divers, Bell & Ross have made their mark by crafting timepieces that are as tough as they are stylish. And while many models stick to the tool-watch brief, the BR-X5 shows the brand flexing its modern, mechanical muscle.
Enter the BR-X5 BLACK STEEL
This isn’t just your standard BR 03 in a new coat. It’s leaner, meaner, and packing serious spec. Dressed in sleek black with a layered steel case, the BR-X5 BLACK STEEL looks like something Tony Stark would design in between Iron Man upgrades. And the matte finish gives it that cool, no-fuss, “Yes, I climb mountains in my spare time” kind of charm.
Credit - Bell & Ross
The Specs: More Than Just a Pretty (Square) Face
Let’s talk details, because this watch isn’t all style and no substance.
Case:
Size: 41mm (wears surprisingly well for a square case — no wrist overwhelm here)
Material: Stainless steel with multi-layer construction
Finish: Brushed and polished steel with black DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating
Water Resistance: 100 metres – enough for showers, swimming, or impressing someone at a yacht party
Dial:
Black sunray finish with white Super-LumiNova on indices and hands
Awesome power reserve indicator
Movement:
Calibre BR-CAL.323, developed in partnership with Kenissi (yes, that Kenissi — the movement wizards behind Tudor)
COSC-certified chronometer — translation: it’s very accurate
70-hour power reserve – go off-grid for the weekend and still know the time when you get back
Bracelet/Strap:
Integrated steel bracelet (slick, sturdy and beautifully finished)
Option for a black rubber strap if you’re feeling a bit more "Black Ops"
On the Wrist: Subtle as a Sledgehammer (in the Best Way)
Despite its technical edge and statement size, the BR-X5 wears surprisingly comfortably. The 41mm case is balanced and hugs the wrist without that "slab of steel" sensation you sometimes get with square watches. The integrated bracelet makes it feel seamless, part tech, part jewellery, part tactical gear.
There’s also an exhibition case back to ogle the Kenissi movement, which is as much a treat for movement nerds as it is for anyone who just likes shiny things.
I think the main takeaway from this watch was just how good it looks in the flesh. I was never really a B&R fan until a stroll in Chichester led me to an Authorised Dealer. This is where my desires truly began!
Credit - Bell & Ross
What We Love (And What We'd Tweak)
Pros:
COSC-certified movement — nerdy AND reliable
Stunning design — bold but not brash
Long power reserve
Excellent finishing
Exhibition case back
Cons:
The square case isn’t for everyone
Bit of a fingerprint magnet (especially the polished surfaces)
Price tag might make your wallet wince, retailing around £6,900
Final Verdict: A Bold Watch With Brains to Match
The BR-X5 BLACK STEEL is the horological equivalent of a bespoke suit that’s also bulletproof. It’s for the modern adventurer with a spreadsheet habit, someone who wants flair, function and a little rebellion on their wrist.
This isn’t your everyday desk-diver or field watch. It’s a conversation starter, a flex (but a tasteful one), and a genuinely impressive bit of kit. Whether you’re a Bell & Ross fan or new to the brand, the BR-X5 BLACK STEEL is well worth a look — even if just to admire from a distance.
FINAL SCORE: 9/10
A strong contender in the luxury sports watch space, especially for those who like their watches like they like their coffee: strong, dark, and a little unconventional.
Buy it now, but please…leave one for me!
