Studio Underd0g has built its reputation on doing things a little differently, and its latest collection takes that philosophy into rather more complicated territory. Introducing the 04SERIES, an entirely new family of calendar watches that combines a retrograde pointer date, moonphase and an unusual weekend indicator, all wrapped up in four distinctly colourful interpretations.
Meet Cloud10, Arabian Sky, Shepherd's Delight and 0vercast. Four watches, one new movement and a rather refreshing approach to keeping track of the days. Because, as Studio Underd0g quite rightly points out, the weekend is arguably the most important part of the calendar.
The 04SERIES is also a significant milestone for the British independent, introducing its first automatic movement and its most complicated watch to date. Developed over two years in partnership with Seagull, the new ST-2115B calibre incorporates 34 newly designed, developed, tooled and tested components.
A Calendar Complication With A Weekend Priority
Before getting into the individual colourways, the real talking point is the rather unusual complication at the heart of the 04SERIES.
Traditional calendar watches tend to concern themselves with the date, month and sometimes the day of the week. Studio Underd0g has decided that isn't quite enough. Instead, the brand has developed a dedicated weekend indicator, using a series of chamfered windows around the outside of the dial to highlight where Saturdays and Sundays fall throughout the month.
It's an entertaining idea, but there's some clever engineering behind it. The windows are CNC cut rather than stamped, creating a crisp finish, while the display can be quick set at the beginning of each month to keep everything aligned.
Alongside this sits a retrograde pointer date, which sweeps around the dial before jumping back to the beginning of the month. It's a particularly useful solution given the additional moonphase display, as the pointer is designed to avoid obscuring the lunar complication. A discreet quick set pusher at two o'clock makes date adjustment straightforward.
It's a lot of information to squeeze onto one dial, but the result is unmistakably Studio Underd0g.
Four Colourways, Four Personalities
The collection launches with four distinctive interpretations, each taking inspiration from a different view of the sky.
The collection's blue sky thinking option, Cloud10 features a soft sky blue dial complemented by delicate pink accents. Inspired by the appearance of the sky just before dusk, it manages to feel both playful and surprisingly refined. It's perhaps the most immediately recognisable Studio Underd0g colour combination of the four, with enough contrast to make the various calendar displays stand out without becoming visually overwhelming.
If Cloud10 is the evening sky, Arabian Sky is very much golden hour. A rich, burnished gold dial is paired with emerald green accents, including the details surrounding the moonphase and weekend indicator. It's arguably the most opulent member of the collection, although Studio Underd0g being Studio Underd0g, there's nothing particularly restrained about it. Gold and green make for a rather striking combination, giving this version a character all of its own.
Taking its inspiration from the old saying about red skies at night, Shepherd's Delight introduces a rich red dial with contrasting purple accents. The moonphase and weekend indicator benefit from the additional colour, creating a particularly vibrant display. It's probably the boldest interpretation in the collection, although that's hardly surprising from a brand that has never been afraid of a little colour.
Finally, we have 0vercast, which might just be the most British of the four. Described by Studio Underd0g as the view from its office window for most of the year, the dial features a slate grey blue finish with the depth of gunmetal. The weekend indicator adds a welcome splash of contrast, while the overall aesthetic is considerably more understated than its colourful siblings. Naturally, the brand has dubbed it 'Assembled in Grey Britain', which is rather difficult to argue with.
A Brand New Automatic Calibre
Regardless of which colourway takes your fancy, all four watches share the same mechanical foundation.
The ST-2115B is an automatic movement developed in collaboration with Seagull over a two year period. The project required 34 newly designed components to bring the various complications together, making it a significant undertaking for the brand.
Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, the calibre delivers a 42 hour power reserve and is rated to an accuracy of -10/+15 seconds per day. It also marks the first time Studio Underd0g has used an automatic movement, making the 04SERIES an important step forward in its mechanical development.
Flip the watch over and the movement can be admired through a sapphire exhibition caseback. It's a welcome addition, particularly given the engineering involved in bringing this rather unusual calendar arrangement to life.
Compact Stainless Steel Cases
The 04SERIES is available in two case sizes, measuring either 37mm or 38.5mm in diameter. Both use a three part 316L stainless steel construction, with a lug to lug measurement of 44.5mm and an overall thickness of 13.5mm, reducing to 10.5mm without the crystal.
A two layer dial construction combines a radial brushed base with a satin polished upper dial, while sapphire crystals feature front and back. Water resistance is rated to 5 ATM.
Each watch is supplied with a strap from The Strap Tailor, featuring a tapered 20mm to 16mm profile, quick release spring bars and a signed stainless steel buckle.
As with the rest of the current Studio Underd0g collection, the 04SERIES is assembled entirely in-house in Great Britain. Each watch is built from start to finish by a single member of the team, whose initials are included on the accompanying paperwork.
Specifications
Collection: Studio Underd0g 04SERIES
Models: Cloud10, Arabian Sky, Shepherd's Delight and 0vercast
Case: 316L Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 37mm or 38.5mm
Thickness: 13.5mm (10.5mm excluding crystal)
Lug To Lug: 44.5mm
Lug Width: 20mm
Water Resistance: 5 ATM
Crystal: Sapphire front and back
Dial: Two layer construction with radial brushed base and satin polished upper dial
Movement: ST-2115B Seagull Automatic for Studio Underd0g
Beat Rate: 28,800 vph
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde pointer date, weekend indicator and moonphase
Accuracy: -10/+15 seconds per day
Strap: The Strap Tailor
Assembly: Great Britain
Price: £750
Winding Things Up
Studio Underd0g has never been particularly interested in following the traditional watchmaking rulebook, and the 04SERIES is another fine example of why we rather like the brand.
There's plenty to admire here beyond the colourful dials. Developing a new automatic calibre with 34 bespoke components is no small undertaking, while bringing together a retrograde pointer date, moonphase and dedicated weekend indicator makes for a genuinely interesting mechanical proposition.
The four colourways also give the collection plenty of personality. Cloud10 is the soft and playful option, Arabian Sky brings a little golden hour glamour, Shepherd's Delight turns up the volume with its red and purple combination, while 0vercast offers something a little more understated for those who prefer their British weather on the wrist.
At £750, the 04SERIES represents an ambitious new direction for Studio Underd0g. It's more complicated, more mechanically ambitious and perhaps a little more grown up than some of the brand's earlier creations, without losing the sense of fun that got us interested in the first place.
And if there's one thing we can all agree on, it's that a watch reminding us when the weekend is approaching is a complication we can certainly get behind.
