Microbrand Spotlight: Baltic Watches: The Rise of French Watchmaking
If you’d told someone ten years ago that a French microbrand would become one of the most talked-about names in modern watch circles, they probably would’ve raised a cynical eyebrow and gone back to Googling vintage Seikos. But here we are. Baltic has quietly become one of the most confident, consistent, and downright desirable names in the £500 to £1,500 space.
Founded in 2017 by Etienne Malec, a man with a serious love of vintage watches and, it turns out, very good taste, Baltic has nailed that rare balance. These are watches that feel old-school without being dusty, and modern without shouting about it. There’s no hype, no fashion collabs, no limited editions made in batches of ten thousand. Just solid design, considered proportions, and the sort of details that make watch people nod approvingly over a pint.
Here are five watches that show exactly why Baltic is worth the noise.
Credit - Baltic
Aquascaphe Classic
This is the one that kicked things off. The Aquascaphe Classic is a 39mm dive watch that looks like it time-travelled out of a 1960s French Navy locker and landed on your wrist. It has a sandwich dial, a double-domed sapphire crystal, drilled lugs, and all the vintage charm you could ask for, without feeling like it’s pretending to be something it’s not.
Inside is a Miyota 9039. Not glamorous, but dependable and slim. The bezel action is crisp, the lume is generous, and it wears like a glove. It’s also surprisingly versatile. On beads of rice it feels like a heritage piece. On a tropic strap, it’s ready for summer. And unlike a lot of microbrand divers, this one doesn’t scream for attention. It just works.
Credit - Baltic
MR01
When the MR01 launched, it sold out almost instantly. And fair enough. A 36mm dress watch with a micro-rotor movement, applied Breguet numerals, and vintage proportions, all for under £600? Baltic wasn’t messing about.
The dial is stunning, with that warm, creamy texture that makes it feel like it’s from another era. Flip it over and you’ll see the micro-rotor ticking away. It’s not Swiss. It’s Hangzhou. But it works, it looks interesting, and it keeps the case slim.
This isn’t a flex piece. It’s a watch you wear because you love how it looks, how it fits, and the fact it doesn’t try to impress anyone but you. And there’s something refreshingly confident about that.
Credit - Baltic
Aquascaphe GMT
The GMT version of the Aquascaphe takes the winning formula of the original and adds just enough functionality to make it a proper travel watch. You still get the 39mm case and vintage styling, but with a 24-hour bezel, dual time zone capability and a Soprod movement ticking away inside.
It’s less of a tool watch and more of a companion. The bezel colours are bang on. The blue and orange variant in particular feels like it was designed for Aperols at golden hour. It’s sharp, slim, and doesn’t shout about being a GMT. Which, frankly, is a relief.
It’s Baltic growing up a bit. A bit more polish. A bit more confidence. Still fun. Just wearing a nicer shirt.
Credit - Baltic
HMS 002
The HMS 002 doesn’t get as much attention, but it’s quietly one of the most charming watches Baltic makes. It’s a manually wound three-hander with a sector dial and a case that feels straight out of the mid-century archives.
There’s something lovely about how understated it is. The leaf hands, the applied indices, the soft brushing on the case. It all adds up to something that feels quietly special without needing to prove a point.
It’s also incredibly wearable. At 38mm, with a slim case and no date to mess up the symmetry, it’s the kind of watch you forget you’re wearing until someone asks you what it is. And that’s probably the best compliment it could get.
Credit - Baltic
Bicompax 002
If you want a vintage chronograph vibe without spending £4,000 on something you’re afraid to wear, the Bicompax 002 is worth a look. This is Baltic’s take on a classic two-register chrono, complete with a hand-wound Seagull ST1901 movement and a display caseback so you can watch it do its thing.
It’s slim, surprisingly refined, and avoids all the usual traps of budget chronos. No overcomplicated dials. No oversized cases. Just a well-proportioned, tasteful bit of design that feels like it belongs on the wrist of someone who owns leather-bound books and probably drinks rye.
Yes, the movement can be a bit noisy. And no, it’s not going to win any chronometry prizes. But it’s got charm, and it makes you want to wind it every morning. Which is more than you can say for most watches under a grand.
Final Thoughts
Baltic doesn’t do loud. It doesn’t do gimmicks. It doesn’t pretend to be something it’s not. That’s probably why it’s built such a loyal following so quickly. These watches aren’t about showing off. They’re about getting the details right.
The sizing is always thoughtful. The finishing punches above its weight. The movements are well chosen. And the designs manage to feel both familiar and fresh — which is harder than it looks.
In a world full of watches trying to be everything to everyone, Baltic’s quiet confidence stands out. And sometimes, that’s exactly what you want on your wrist.