Thirty years is a fairly significant milestone in anyone’s book. For Vacheron Constantin, however, apparently a cake and a few balloons simply will not do.
To celebrate three decades of its iconic Overseas collection, the Swiss maison has unveiled something considerably more exciting: a seriously handsome new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin, dressed in white gold and an especially tasty shade of azure blue.
Limited to just 200 pieces, it is the sort of watch that makes you wonder whether turning 30 yourself would be considerably more enjoyable if someone handed you a perpetual calendar at the end of it. And frankly, we think it would.
Thirty Years Of The Overseas
The Overseas first appeared in 1996, evolving from Vacheron Constantin’s earlier luxury sports watches, most notably the 222. Over the following three decades, the collection has become one of the big names in the world of high end integrated bracelet watches.
The current generation arrived in 2016, bringing a more refined interpretation of the familiar Maltese cross inspired design, along with a clever interchangeable strap system.
For the 30th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has gone for one of the collection’s most technically impressive complications: the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin.
It is a fitting choice, particularly because the perpetual calendar version has already become something of a poster child for what the Overseas can do when sporty design meets serious haute horlogerie.
White Gold And A Rather Lovely Azure Dial
The new watch measures 41.5mm across and just 8.1mm thick, which is impressively slender considering what is going on underneath the dial.
The case and integrated bracelet are crafted from 18K white gold, giving the watch a considerably more luxurious presence than the stainless steel versions of the Overseas. It is not exactly pretending to be a casual daily beater, then.
The star of the show, however, is arguably the new azure dial.
Vacheron Constantin has used a lacquered sunray finish that gives the blue surface plenty of depth as the light moves across it. The three calendar displays sit neatly at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock, while the moonphase occupies the traditional 6 o’clock position.
The moonphase itself uses an azure disc with an 18K white gold moon, tying the whole dial together rather nicely.
White gold applied hour markers and hands complete the look, with Super LumiNova providing a blue glow when the lights go down.
It is restrained, elegant and unmistakably Vacheron Constantin. In other words, it is not trying too hard.
The Clever Bit Is Underneath
The real magic happens inside the case.
The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin is powered by Vacheron Constantin’s Calibre 1120 QP/1, an automatic perpetual calendar movement measuring just 4.05mm thick. That is properly thin.
The movement contains 276 components and operates at 19,800 vibrations per hour, with a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.
More importantly, it takes care of the rather complicated business of keeping track of the date, day, month and leap year cycle automatically.
The calendar mechanism knows whether a month has 28, 30 or 31 days and will continue displaying the correct date through leap years until 2100.
So while the rest of us are still trying to remember whether February has 28 or 29 days, the Vacheron is quietly getting on with it.
Beautiful From The Back Too
Naturally, Vacheron Constantin has not hidden all that mechanical goodness away.
Turn the watch over and the movement can be admired through a sapphire crystal display caseback.
There is plenty to look at, including Geneva stripes, carefully bevelled bridges and traditional perlage finishing. The 22K gold rotor is decorated with a compass rose, a particularly appropriate detail for a collection that has always had travel and exploration at its heart.
It is the sort of movement that rewards owners who enjoy taking their watch off simply to stare at the back of it for five minutes.
Not that we would know anything about that.
Three Straps, One Very Expensive Watch
The white gold integrated bracelet is naturally the star of the show, complete with Vacheron Constantin’s distinctive half Maltese cross links and a folding clasp with micro adjustment.
But this is an Overseas, so versatility is part of the package.
Owners also get both a white rubber strap and a denim blue rubber strap, each designed to work with the same quick release system. An 18K white gold pin buckle completes the package.
That means the watch can go from suitably serious to considerably more relaxed without requiring a trip to the watchmaker.
There is also 50 metres of water resistance, although we suspect most owners will be more interested in admiring their investment than throwing it into the hotel swimming pool.
The Specifications
• Model: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin 30th Anniversary
• Reference: 4300V/220G H119
• Case: 18K white gold
• Case Size: 41.5mm
• Thickness: 8.1mm
• Dial: Lacquered azure blue with sunray finish
• Movement: Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1120 QP/1
• Movement Thickness: 4.05mm
• Jewels: 36
• Components: 276
• Frequency: 19,800 vibrations per hour
• Power Reserve: Approximately 40 hours
• Functions: Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar and moonphase
• Water Resistance: 50 metres
• Bracelet: 18K white gold integrated bracelet
• Additional Straps: White rubber and denim blue rubber
• Limited Edition: 200 pieces
The watch is currently listed by Vacheron Constantin alongside the regular Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin, with the standard white gold version carrying a UK price of £119,000. Vacheron Constantin had not announced an official UK price for the 30th anniversary limited edition at the time of the launch coverage.
Winding Things Up
There is something rather appealing about the way Vacheron Constantin has approached the Overseas anniversary.
It could have gone completely over the top. Instead, the brand has taken an already complicated and exceptionally slim watch and given it a fresh colour combination that feels both contemporary and suitably luxurious.
The azure dial works beautifully with the white gold case, while the 8.1mm thickness makes this an impressively wearable perpetual calendar for something packing this much horological machinery.
And then there is the small matter of only 200 being made.
For collectors, that is likely to be the biggest attraction of all. The Overseas has spent the last 30 years establishing itself as one of the great luxury sports watches, and this new perpetual calendar feels like a fitting way to celebrate the occasion.
Happy 30th, Overseas.
We would have settled for cake, but this will do nicely.
