Three French Watches I’m Seriously Considering, and Why You Might Want To Join Me

ReviewTrends

19 Jun

I’ve been quietly keeping tabs on the French watch scene for a while now. It’s been a slow burn, the kind that starts with a “hmm, that’s interesting” and ends with you justifying a third microbrand purchase in a single cart. French watchmaking has a long, noble history, but what’s happening right now is far more exciting than dusty Breguet busts and Versailles clocks. These new-generation brands are combining impeccable design with horological substance — and they’re doing it with more charm than most Swiss giants twice the price.

What’s especially compelling is how these microbrands have emerged not as imitations of the Swiss model, but as distinct voices in their own right. Brands like Baltic, Serica, and Beaubleu aren’t just making watches, they’re crafting identity. You won’t find oversized cases or overwrought logos here. What you’ll find instead is a kind of poetic restraint, a deep attention to detail, and a willingness to challenge norms, whether that’s with floating circular hands, COSC-certified GMTs without the fuss, or hand-wound chronographs that wear like vintage treasures.

These brands may be small, but they’re growing fast. They’ve earned loyal followings not with celebrity endorsements or splashy ad campaigns, but with thoughtfully executed releases, transparent pricing, and quietly confident design. The result? Watches that feel meaningful and considered, not mass-produced or market-tested. And that’s exactly why I’m paying attention.

So today’s short list is personal. These are the three French microbrand watches I’m genuinely close to buying. Not wishlist fluff or hypothetical “if I win the lottery” pieces. These are the real deal. Consider this a £4,260 masterclass in elegance, detail, and good old-fashioned taste

Beaubleu Seconde Française 19.24 “White Ivory”

Price: €1,490 (~£1,280)

This is the kind of watch that doesn’t whisper for your attention, it just quietly earns it. Beaubleu’s “White Ivory” is one of those designs you don’t fully appreciate until you’re staring at it up close. At 39mm wide and only 10.2mm thick, it wears like a dream, sitting low and light on the wrist. But what really makes it stand out is the brand’s signature circular hands, a floating, almost poetic sweep around a dial that feels more architectural than decorative. It’s understated, yes, but never boring.

The movement is where things get particularly French. It uses a FE (France Ébauches) automatic calibre, not something you see every day, but a wonderfully appropriate nod to French horological heritage. It’s visible through the sapphire exhibition caseback and offers a respectable 46-hour power reserve. The dial itself is gorgeous with crisp ivory, railway minute track, subtle lume accents, all protected by a curved sapphire crystal. There’s a hidden crown at 3 o’clock that preserves the symmetry, and the entire thing is limited to just 888 numbered pieces.

It’s a watch that blurs the line between art and object. You can wear it with tailoring, jeans, or probably while reading philosophy in a Left Bank café. It’s not about status, it’s about design. And there’s something quietly compelling about that.

Serica 8315-1 Travel Chronometer (GMT)

Price: €1,890 (~£1,620)

The Serica 8315 GMT is, at first glance, a no-nonsense travel watch, but spend five minutes with it and you’ll realise it’s packed with thoughtful quirks and sharp choices. The 39mm brushed steel case wears with effortless balance, and the 12-hour ceramic bezel is both tactile and legible. Unlike many “me too” GMTs with overwrought designs and colour vomit bezels, this one feels cohesive. The high-gloss black enamel dial contrasts beautifully with the off-white lume, and everything is anchored by a chunky, oversized crown that adds a utilitarian edge to an otherwise elegant package.

Open it up and it gives you a COSC-certified Soprod C125 automatic movement, a Swiss calibre with GMT functionality and 40 hours of power reserve. That chronometer certification isn’t just for show, this is a properly accurate traveller’s tool. Water resistance is 200m, which means it’s just as happy tracking New York time on your work trip as it is getting hammered by waves in Biarritz. It also features a hacking seconds hand and screw-down crown, meaning you can sync it and seal it with ease.

Serica also offers an optional set of end-links for the bracelet, small metal pieces that sit between the lugs and connect the bracelet more seamlessly to the case. It’s a minor addition that makes a major visual difference. Without them, the bracelet floats a little more loosely, giving the watch a sportier, slightly utilitarian vibe. But with the end-links fitted, everything tightens up visually; it looks sharper, more intentional, more finished. For me, the end-links change the look for the better. It’s the difference between well-made and well-considered.

Baltic Tricompax Panda Chronograph

Price: €1,585 (~£1,360)

Baltic’s Tricompax Panda is that rare thing: a hand-wound chronograph that feels modern and old-school at the same time. The 39.5mm stainless steel case has all the right vintage cues like drilled lugs, brushed finishing, stepped bezel, but it’s never trying too hard. The creamy white dial contrasts beautifully with the black guilloché sub-dials, and the tachymeter scale sits neatly around the edge without overwhelming the layout. It’s clean, confident, and proportioned to absolute perfection.

The movement is a hand-wound Sellita SW510-M, offering 63 hours of power reserve, more than enough for a weekend away, assuming you can bear to take it off. Winding it is a tactile joy: not too stiff, not too light, and with just enough resistance to remind you that you’re dealing with a machine. Baltic also resisted the urge to crowd the caseback with marketing. It’s a simple sapphire exhibition window, showing the nicely finished movement in all its utilitarian charm.

This isn’t a flashy chrono. It’s not a Daytona wannabe. It’s a tribute to what makes a chronograph interesting with a clean layout, mechanical movement, and a look that works just as well with a white tee as it does under a shirt cuff. It’s for people who love pressing pushers just to hear the satisfying click. A real collector’s piece that feels personal, not performative.

Total Cost: £4,260 (ish)

Three distinct characters. One from the Left Bank, one ready for international flights, and one that looks like it belongs on the wrist of a 1960s Le Mans driver. A dress watch, a GMT, and a chronograph - all mechanical, all limited or boutique-made, and all under the radar. That’s not just a collection, it’s a true statement.

And while the Swiss continue to do what they do best (mostly hide your name on waitlists), the French have quietly built something more honest, more playful, and — dare I say it — more stylish.

I’m not saying you should buy all three. But I might.